This morning was pumping but packed, and only good for about an hour. I managed to get one of the bigger ones that came through as soon as i got in, just before the swell suddenly died. Brooke Mason caught the next one, which was one of the best big barrels I've seen in Cornwall in ages (the jammy bastard). Then about thirty of us all waited out to sea for more than an hour for the next big set - which never came. So although i was pretty jealous of Brooke, I was stoked i'd managed i grab this one before it all went tits up. Bring on the winter swells!
Framegrab: Chris Levi
